Dishwasher Control Panel

During and after the rebuilding of the Kitchen Counter, I started to work on other repairs in our kitchen. In this post I describe the repair of our dishwasher control panel. See also Kitchen Cabinets, Refrigerator Bins, and Storage Under Sinks.

Lori bought our Maytag dishwasher in about 1990. Over the years I've replaced several of its parts, including the front panels, the filler for the upper front panel, the timer, the spray arm manifold, the latch for the soap dispenser, and the lower rack. I had also applied gaffer's tape around the top of the plastic control panel which had many cracks and some loose screws. Recently it became clear that it was time to do a more thorough job of repairing the panel, an item not available from parts suppliers or on eBay.

Removal of control panel

The first step was to partially disassemble the door in order to remove the control panel, a diagram of which is below.

In the picture below the control panel's cover (part number 6), which you will see later, has already been removed. I disconnected the wires from the switch on the left (part number 3) and the switch in the middle of the panel (part number 5), but removal of the wires from the timer (part number 4) seemed more difficult. Not wanting to risk breaking any of the connectors, I forwent disconnecting the wires from the timer.

Repair of cracks

In the video below you can seen all the cracks in the control panel as well as six damaged stanchions which are to accept screws.

Following the advice of David Brorein, I used 5-minute epoxy to repair all the cracks.

Removal of damaged stanchions

The picture below shows one of the damaged stanchions that accepts a screw that secures the door of the dishwasher. You can also see the epoxy used to repair one of the cracks.

I used a file to remove the stanchion, just as I did with each of the two other stanchions that accept a screw that secures the door of the dishwasher.

The picture below shows a damaged stanchion that accepts a screw to attach the timer.

Again I used the file to remove the damaged stanchion, along with the other damaged stanchion for the timer.

Replacement of stanchions by wood blocks

I used some scrap plywood to create the wood blocks that would replace the damaged stanchions.

Before buying my vise some time ago, Tom Reingold told me that once I had a vise I would find many uses for it. I used the vise frequently throughout this project. The wood blocks needed to be first cut to the desired length and width and then chiseled to the required thickness.

The picture below shows the five wood blocks placed on the control panel where they would replace the stanchions. 

I also needed to create a wood block that would support the partially broken tab on the end of the control panel's cover.

Not sushi, but rather the wood blocks before being coated with epoxy to protect them from moisture...

...and after being coated with epoxy.

I used 5-minute epoxy to attach the wood blocks to the control panel. For some of the stanchions I placed a five-pound weight after applying the epoxy.

For other wood blocks I used a clamp.

The single wood block for the tab failed, so I attached a second wood block on the outside of the control panel.

When I attempted to place the white switch below, I discovered that I needed to use my chisel to adjust both the lengths and the thicknesses of the two wood blocks between which it would sit.

That's a fit.

I discovered that I had drilled the hole in one of the wood blocks in the wrong location...

...so I filled the hole with some wood and secured it with 5-minute epoxy.

I then removed the excess wood and drilled the hole in the correct location.

The picture above shows the residue from the gaffer's tape I used some years ago keep the contraol panel from falling apart. I've tried to remove the residue with 90% isopropyl alcohol, WD-40, and Goo Gone, all without success. I will try reapplying gaffer's tape over the residue and then removing the tape, which I've read might work. If it doesn't I will try using mineral spirits on a day warm enough to open lots of windows.

In the video below you can seen all the repaired cracks as well as the five wood blocks which replaced the damaged stanchions.

Installation of repaired control panel

The first step of installing the control panel was to connect the wires to the switches inside the control panel.

I also needed to attach the ground wire. Notice that the stanchion into which the screw for the ground wire is broken. I realized that I needed to repair that stanchion.

I was glad that 5-minute epoxy successfully attached the two pieces of the stanchion to each other.

I was unable to insert the cover because the block of wood on its left side was too thick.

So I chiseled it down and coated it with 5-minute epoxy.

I could then easily insert the cover. 

I reassembled and closed the door, and started the dishwasher. It worked!

With all its cracks repaired and its stanchions replaced by wood blocks, the control panel now feels secure rather than loosey-goosey.

Here are all the tools and supplies I used to repair the control panel.

The work table was one of two that Lori and I received as a gift from Dick Demenus when he closed Tekserve. We've often used the two tables for the buffet at our parties, but this is the first time we've used it as a work bench, which is how I presume it was used at Tekserve. Thank you, Dick!

There were many steps along the way in this project when I had to redo some work because it wasn't quite right. But as I wrote in Aphorisms and Exhortations:

How much of an adventure can it be if everything goes according to plan?

In the end it all worked out, and now Lori and I are the only people in the world with a dishwasher that has wooden parts.

Subscribe to this blog

If you post a comment, please identify yourself, either by
using your Google account or by including your name in your comment.